Paper Details

The handloom and silk-weaving ecosystem of Murshidabad district, West Bengal, stands as an evocative symbol of India's complex artisanal landscape. This paper explores the deep socio-economic and structural transformations within the sector, evaluating the clear divide between highly specialized luxury silk weaving (Garad, Baluchari, and Matka) and low-value, utility cotton handloom production (gamchhas and lungis) . Moving away from basic literal data compilation, this study employs an original qualitative framework that weaves together historical archives, colonial-era trade data, and extensive field observations from regional weaving clusters. The analysis traces how historical shifts from royal court patronage to extractive colonial policies reshaped an independent trade into a fragmented cottage industry. Tracing these changes reveals a troubling process of rural de-industrialization. Generational artisans are increasingly trapped by low wages, high material costs, and competition from low-cost powerlooms, prompting a steady labor migration toward the unorganized bidi manufacturing sector. Finally, this study analyzes primary weaver cooperatives and highlights structural revival strategies including advanced technological upgrades, strict enforcement of Geographical Indication (GI) protections, and direct marketing channels to preserve this historic craft legacy.

Murshidabad Silk, Handloom Economics, Post-Colonial Industrial Shifts, Labor Stratification, Cooperative Frameworks, De-industrialization.